Czech Out These Blogs

Czech Please


This past weekend, some friends and I decided to break our trend of traveling in Western Europe and head to the Czech Republic. Our hostel in Prague was just outside Old Town Square. Believe it or not, Old Town Square and the surrounding Old Town are made up of very old buildings. The architecture here is amazing, dating back to the 13th century. Looking around the square after a tour of the city, I was able to identify many of the buildings. From the center of the square, I could see the gothic Týn Cathedral, the baroque St. Nicholas Church, Old Town Hall, and a medieval astronomical clock. Next to me, in the middle of the square was a statue of Jan Hus, a religious reformer who was burned at the stake in Constantinople. However, after looking through the rest of the Prague blogs, I decided not to write about any of this. Instead, I will focus on the new restaurants and bars that now occupy the majority of these unbelievable buildings.

Don’t get me wrong, the Prague Castle and Charles Bridge are awesome architectural and historical artifacts; but, when I went to Prague, I decided to look for something significant that might be overlooked by most tourists. I found that something in Prague’s unique restaurant, pub, and bar scene.In a Prague blog made available to us by our very own Tim Montgomery, were a number of suggestions as to where to locate the best food and drink in Prague. As we began hopping from restaurant to restaurant and bar to bar, some common themes began to pop up. First, everything was very cheap. Although New Town is slightly cheaper than Old Town, we were still paying the equivalent of $1.19 for a half liter of beer. That’s less than one euro! The reason for this excellent exchange rate is Prague’s extreme inflation in 1991 and 1993. This inflation was the result of radical government policies designed to provide more control of the economy. The details of these monetary policies and are explained in this article. To make the awesome exchange rate even better, the quality of food and beer at each of our stops was excellent. I picked up on the fact that many dishes and all of the beer you will find in Prague is part of Czech culture. Pilsner and Budweiser can both have their roots traced back to the Czech Republic, as both were German words for cities there. Today, almost every restaurant and bar has a contract with one of these beers making them readily available. This simple observation is supported by the fact that the Czech Republic consumes more beer per capita than any other country in Europe. Combine one of these beers with a traditional Czech dish like beef and dumplings and you can have an excellent meal for around $5. Just remember, unlike most of Western Europe, gratuity is not included in your bill.

The final theme that I picked up on between the various bars and restaurants were the buildings themselves. Almost every place we visited had some sort of basement sitting area. Sometimes, the entire restaurant would be underground. When I got home and looked for an explanation for this phenomenon, I discovered something very unique to Prague. Prague has always suffered from flooding, with the most recent one occurring in 2002. After constant flooding in the 13th century, the city planners decided upon a clever solution: raise the streets up one floor. Only today is Prague beginning to dig itself out. Underground passages and courtyards are now becoming homes to bars, restaurants, and shops throughout Prague. Descending into these underground areas is like hopping into a time machine. In many of them, the original stone work still lines the walls and the outlines of what were once windows can be spotted if you look carefully. I only wish I had known this before I left Prague so as to have a closer look at these pieces of history.'

Tim’s Thoughts: http://mudecactivities.wordpress.com/2010/05/27/563/

Economy: http://www.bates.edu/prebuilt/Begg.pdf

Streets Raised: http://www.timeout.com/prague/features/320/prague-area-guide

by Chris Haddad

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Czech It Out- The Charles Bridge

Flying into Prague adjacent to the Vltava River, more and more sights I had read about before journeying to the golden city became clearer. As Prague flew by in what seemed like seconds, I tried to spot a few of the larger structures I would be visiting in my short time in the city. Only being able to identify two major structures, the Prague Castle and the Charles Bridge, I felt like my mission view the major attractions of Prague would be nearly impossible. My feelings of belittlement were turned around quickly as my journey in Prague took off and I navigated the compact, historical city rapidly and with little effort. My quick journey, however, came to a knee-quivering halt while observing the arguably best view in the city from the majestic, historical Charles Bridge.

As my thoughts on the river drew to a close, I glanced to the hillside and saw the Prague Castle, the second sight I was able to recognize from the window of the plane. Looking at the castle, my previous research of the city again proved useful. The castle, which serves as the seat of the president of the Czech Republic, stands atop a high hill and is a constant reminder of the wealth and power Prague once held on the European continent. Check out this website for great information on the Prague Castle! Originally built as a fortress under the Premysl dynasty,the castle is the oldest structure in Prague and within its towering and seemingly impenetrable walls is the St. Vitus Cathedral, the oldest gothic cathedral in Central Europe. As I gazed up at the castle, I began to get a true feeling of how much history surrounded the city of Prague. I was dumbfounded by how little I had known about Prague before my research and journey to the City of a Thousand Spires. For more on the St. Vitus Cathedral, check out this website with hours of information of the Oldest Gothic Cathedral in Central Europe!

Standing atop the Charles Bridge, I was astounded by the stunning views the bridge offered from the base of the Prague Castle in the New Town juxtaposed with the Astronomical Clock in the Old Town. My feelings of bliss and happiness shifted to a pensive mood as I began to ponder the history of the bridge. From myresearch of Prague before leaving Luxembourg, I knew the bridge was ordered to be constructed by Charles IV who reigned over Prague in the 14th century. Built as a connection, the bridge allowed the city of Prague to expand across the previous boundary of the Vltava River opening up new land to continue developing what, at the time, was the third largest city in Europe. For more information on the history of the Charles Bridge, check out this site!!

Catching the end of a tour guides overenthusiastic sentence about the river, my curiosity was sparked by a fact I heard about Prague being a major hub of slave trade in the 2nd century. After finding my computer and further researching the topic, it turns out the city of Prague grew immensely due to the merchants and traders who moved to the city due its strategic location. With the Vltava River running on the western edge of the present day old city, it was extremely easy for merchants to trade and ship goods around Prague and central Europe which proved extremely profitable and allowed the city to become immensely wealthy.

As my sporadic thoughts about the city and walk across the bridge came to a close simultaneously, I felt slightly overwhelmed by my experience to that point in Prague. With a history spanning thousands of years and encompassing countless wars and power shifts, it is easy to see why the citizens of Prague have so much pride in not only their city but their country of the Czech Republic as well. As Billig explained in his article on Banal Nationalism, nationalism is an unmistakable sense of pride stemming from deep roots in ones country and history. National identity is more than what language you speak or what food you eat. National identity is who you are, and the people of Prague have an immense treasure to show the world exactly who they are.

by Will Poindexter

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The Jewish Quarter of Prague

Our first day in Prague was filled with interesting and diverse architecture, a beautiful mix of old and new, and all the winding alleys that lead you to another area that has a different story to tell. One of the areas I found most interesting was the Jewish quarter. This area of Prague dates back to the 10th century however, it has seen a number of changes over the years. Although close to two thirds of the Jewish population in Prague was decimated in the second world war, much of this area was preserved because Hitler intended to use Prague as a, “exotic museum of an extinct race” (Jewish Prague). Although it is a fine line when you enter the Jewish Quarter you notice a now very prosperous part of the city, and the beautifully designed synagogues. I found the Spanish Synagogue most interesting because it exemplifies historic Islamic style that measures the cooperative relationship between Islam and Judaism at the time it was built in the 1860’s, also linked to the Jewish culture in Spain.

Another interesting part of the Jewish quarter was the cemetery. It lies about two meters above street level and all you can see from the street is a tall wall blocked in with two buildings and grass on top. Part of the Jewish tradition is that they must bury their dead and here in Prague they began to run out of room, so they began layering burials on top of each other. It is very eerie seeing all of the tombstones crowded together. Although we did not enter the cemetery because it is only included in the Jewish history tour.

The Old-New synagogue was another highlight of our trip through the Jewish quarter. Apparently it is one of the oldest medieval synagogues still standing dating back to the 13th century. It exemplifies a dark gothic style. This structure is quite significant because it is said to be built on stones from the temple of Jerusalem (Old-New Synagogue Information). The achitecture that is seen here is typical gothic and when this was first built this type of architecture was rather new to Prague, but is now seen throughout the city.

All of these changes that have occurred over the long history of Prague can be seen in the scope of the city. Where a moat used to be there is now a street and what was once the poorest part of town is now the most prosperous, the Jewish quarter, this can all be seen as evidence of urbanization changing this once medieval city. The Jews used to be secluded to only this area which was originally on the outskirts of Prague and bordered by the Vlatava river, but now it is obvious that Prague has expanded widely around it in all directions (Prague Map-Josefov is the Jewish Quarter). If it were not for our free walking tour I don’t know how much I would have seen or experienced in the Jewish quarter but it was really valuable to the time we spent in Prague.

by Amy Burke

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Old Collides Into New

If you had asked me two weeks ago if Prague was a stop on my trip, I would have laughed. It had seemed to me that not only was Prague too far but it was too overwhelming for me. Tim Montgomery has frequently told me while we stroll through the halls of the chateau that Prague’s Old Town Square has a lot of history and is very scenic. With the angel on one shoulder taking copious notes on the history, the devil on the other is hearing from a friend about the New Town with an exciting nightlife. When finally breathing the chilled Czech air, I found a perfect blend of new and old to culminate into quite the weekend.
When first stepping into the outskirts bustling Old Town Square, there are several first impressions that can be noted. The first is the overpowering sense of historical relevance of where I was standing. From Prague.cz, the old town square was constructed in the 10th century to be a place where assorted goods from various places can be sold. An ironic twist is that now, it is a place where tourists from various places come to soak in the beautiful buildings that form a cocoon around the square. Swarms of guided tours buzz about like hornets around Astronomical Clock that is mounted on the wall of the Old Town Hall. It stares back with a lucidity of the ages like a watchful eye that has seen it all. It was built in 1410 and then refurnished by Master Hanus in 1490. Boasting more than just hands, there are zodiac sign indicators as well as a golden sun that spins to indicate the suns position in the sky. Fighting through the crowd, I stumble farther into history.

With my eyes drawn to the center piece of the square, a statue in remembrance to Jan Hus exposes itself. In studying it, you could be convinced that it is simply a pigeon refuge. The bronze statue has turned to a deep green that is complimented by white, chalky bird excrement. It has been at the heart of this square since 1915 in reverent honor and commemoration to Jan Hus fighting the church practices. These included selling indulgences as well as only the priest taking Holy Communion and not the people. Finally, the dark, ominous spires of the Tyn Chapel protrude into vision in this beautiful historical jumble. Seen in the picture to the right, its gothic architecture stands out like a dark cloud in the blue sky. Built in 1365, it is the final resting place of Tycho Brahe who was a famous astronomer.

When my digital camera chirps that it is running low on space for any more pictures, I know that I have probably seen enough of the historical relics. Rumbling in my stomach also indicates that my stomach has run out of things to do and requires some attention. Following my nose, and in this case my gut, I head to New Town for a street hot dog. According to Prague.cz, New Town was founded by Charles IV in 1348. Just like a snake shedding its skin, Old Town Square was old and a newer, bigger one was needed. An outer fortification was torn down to allow the city to expand and Wenceslas Square was born.

The very interesting thing about this square is how modern it is. I can see a Nike store, several chic looking clothes stores and, of course, a McDonald’s from my vantage point. Despite the fact that I had spent the other half of my morning in hundreds of years of history, I found it funny to make the time travel in a matter of blocks. There are also modern dance clubs in the surrounding buildings if the locals want to unwind after a long day. Specifically, Lucerna Music Bar and Club which is located literally a stone’s throw from the Wenceslas Square. Able to fit scores of people, the haze of the club is still in periphery of my sight and the bumping of the music is still ringing in my ears.

Though I am of only amateur status as a European explorer, Prague opened my eyes to a new experience of culture. So far, it has seemed to me that cities have a disproportional personality. Some are known for history and some are known for their younger, wilder side but I had not seen a place where the two were such fast friends who lived so close to each other. Prague is a bi-polar city that is not afraid to flaunt both sides at once. Walking down a 500 year old boulevard to a dance club may seem strange to an American but to the Czech people living in this beautiful city, it is just another walk in the park.

by Dave Williams

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Inside the Square

For my final weekend of travel in Europe I decided to explore the city of Prague. Prague is a very unique city with its diverse architecture and people. The Old Town Square brings all of the locals and tourists together due to its historical and current significance. This square is a common place for celebrations and with the world cup going on it was an unbelievable experience. In the square there was one huge television which showed the games throughout the course of the day. One could get a sense of the peoples cultural identities based on the teams they cheered for and against.

Apart from the current significance of the Old Town Square as a common gathering place, one can really get a sense of history from the surrounding art and architecture. The three main structures in the square are the Tyne Cathedral, St. Nicholas Church, and Astronomical clock. The Tyne Cathedral along with many houses surrounding the area has more of a gothic appearance, while the St. Nicholas Church is a baroque style. Many of the houses and structures in this area have gothic styles due to Prague being the capital of the Holy Roman Empire in the middle ages. The basement and first floor of many buildings were gothic but then added onto years later using different forms of architecture. Along with the amazing architecture there is also a memorial located in the center of the square. At first I was unaware of the significance of the memorial until we took a tour of the city. The memorial had been built in 1915 in order to honor the 500 year anniversary of Jan Hus. The people throughout Prague had always been under the oppression of many different regimes, but Jan Hus stands as a symbol of strength against these groups. Although at the time Jan Hus stood against the oppression of the Catholic Church, the symbol of the memorial had taken on many different meanings throughout the years. Such as since World War one the statue has symbolized anti-soviet rule and later anti-communism.

The people of Prague still recognize Jan Hus as one of the most important Czech nationalists to this day. I felt that it was very interesting that one statue of this man who died around 500 years ago was still valued and helped the people get through years of oppression. The statue was built and paid for completely by donations of the public so one can understand the importance it has to nationalism in Prague.

The Old Town Square was a very interesting place to visit due to all of the excitement in the area. There are now many cafes, souvenir shops and restaurants spread throughout the square because it is one of the main tourist destinations of Prague. I had never seen so much diversity of architecture in Europe until traveling to the Old Town Square. It was amazing how much of the gothic and baroque style buildings survived throughout everything Prague had been through in the world wars. Although the Old Town Square has undergone many changes throughout the centuries, it has still preserved its historical origins.

http://www.prague.net/old-town-square
http://www.prague.cz/old-town-square/
http://www.pragueholiday.cz/old-town-square.php

by Ben Hettler